Sustainable land use practices that provide both economic and environmental advantages and are of global importance as the world’s six billion people compete for water, food, fibre and shelter, the high yield per hectare of bamboo becomes a very significant advantage. In Bangladesh it was called the “golden fibre,” as trade in jute brought the largest amount of foreign currency into the country. Linen, or flax is the most luxurious of all the bast fibres and has a very specific tactile appeal; it is smooth and lustrous to both the eye and hand, the fibre is almost silky in texture, yet embodies a springy freshness. Field retting is an industrial process for extracting valuable bast fibres from hemp. It is second only to soy in its nutritional value, is highly digestible and an effective unsaturated oil. sativa) is an efficient crop, which has multiple uses, the most valuable part of the plant is its fibres for production for the fabric industry, and it is also extensively used for biodegradable plastics and bio fuels. India produces a variety of hemp known as. Classical field retting and controlled fungal retting of hemp using Phlebia radiata Cel 26 (a mutant with low cellulose degrading ability) were compared with pure pectinase treatment with regard to mechanical properties of the produced fibre/epoxy composites. The traditional uses for kenaf have been rope, twine and coarse cloth as well as for fuel and nutrition. Bast fibre bundles are often several feet long and composed of overlapping cellulose fibres and a cohesive gum, or pectin, which strengthens the stem of the plant. Years of selective breeding have produced many different varieties. Chemical retting is more expensive and does not produce the superior quality fibre obtained from the biological retting process. Water retting gives a more uniform quality product. There is also an EU-funded project (known as FAIR-CT98-9615) that has recently been working with textile companies in Austria, Germany and Italy to develop methods of extracting fibre from nettles, as well as the spinning, weaving and manufacturing of these textiles. This produces a more expensive fibre than bamboo viscose which is more widely used for contemporary clothing. It is a more expensive fibre than cotton with much more of a niche market and therefore is an ideal vehicle for organic cultivation and ecological production methods. Hemp fabric is similar to linen in both hand and appearance. The hard fibres are obtained by decortication and the soft fibres by ginning process as the machines remove the product from the plant. Naturally Advanced Technologies Inc. (NAT), Vancouver, Canada, has granted licence to Tuscarora Yarns Inc. under which Tuscarora will design and manufacture specialty yarns containing blends of NAT's CRAILAR� Flax fibre with cotton or other fibres. The crops grow quickly and around 100 days after harvesting the soil is left in better condition as it has been replenished with nutrients and nitrogen. Ramie has an excellent resistance to abrasion and a tensile strength three to five times stronger than cotton and twice as strong as flax, although it is brittle and will break if consistently folded in the same place. Swiss company Litrax is, however involved in the development of sustainable manufacturing of bamboo fibre. Flax and ramie strands, however, are usually separated into individual fibre cells, or true plant fibres. Along with flax, this fast-growing plant is now the basis for a new textile woven on conventional cotton-machinery, called CRAILAR� Organic Fibres. It is one of the most affordable of all the natural fibres and is second only to cotton in quantity produced and variety of uses. Example:Jute is associated with the process of Retting. It is reported to yield ~6–10 tons of dry matter per acre, nine times the yield of wood. In this study, molecular, chemical, and scanning electron microscopy studies were employed to understand the field retting mechanisms involving microbiota, including microbial community dynamics, hemp colonization, functions/interactions, and hemp biodegradation. Bamboo fabric made from this process is sometimes called bamboo linen. The future may see nettles as a crop that can transform lives for those growing textile crops in the developing world. It requires far less use of pesticides and artificial fertilizers. The principal consumers of Ramie fibre are Japan, France, Germany and the United Kingdom. Bamboo also contains a substance called bamboo-kun, an antimicrobial agent that gives the plant a natural resistance to pest and fungi infestation. In textiles it is often mistaken for linen and is extremely absorbent and dries quickly. In tanks with warm water, the time is reduced to a few days. The natural processing of Litrax bamboo allows the fibre to remain strong to produce an extremely high quality product, and the process results in a very durable textile. 3d), and intense degradation was evident in the … Ramie is also an important fabric both woven and knitted for the North American market where it is seen as a cheaper ‘linen look’ alternative. plant fibres like … After 10 days of bacterial retting, the stalks were washed in hot water, air dried, combed, and subjected to tests for fiber characteristics. This high growth rate and the ability to flourish in such diverse climates gives the bamboo plant the potential to be a highly sustainable and versatile resource. However, it wrinkles easily and should not be creased excessively to avoid wear and breakage of the fibers. • The microorganisms, mostly bacteria from retting water enter the plant tissues through the stomata, epidermis and cambium or the cut end, when immersed in retting tank, and through their enzymatic action loosens the fibre strands from the woody core. By retting the fibres they are softened and can be decorticated and extracted by beating 16, which is usually done by hand. Nettles have the potential to be a viable alternative to cotton, and other textiles that are harmful to the environment. Water-retting traditionally depends upon anaerobic bacteria that live in lakes, rivers, ponds, and vats to produce pectinases and other enzymes to ret flax. The quality of the final linen yarn and fabric is dependent upon the growing conditions, harvesting methods and whether it is a short fibre known as, It is a more expensive fibre than cotton with much more of a niche market and therefore is an ideal vehicle for organic cultivation and ecological production methods. Retting is facilitated by anaerobic butyric acid bacteria such as Clostridium botulinum, Clostridium tetani and Clostridium perfringens. It also produces minimum wastage, as there are several by-products. The United States is the only industrialised country where it is still illegal to grow hemp, although some states have granted licences for the cultivation of industrial hemp. Plantation-grown kenaf is capable of growing from seedlings to 5 m at maturity in five months. Sativa which is commonly known as Industrial hemp and is the term given to the variety grown for fibre and other non drug related purposes. Hemp is the generic name for the entire cannabis family of plants. Retting is a process employing the action of micro-organisms and moisture on plants to dissolve or rot away much of the cellular tissues and pectins surrounding bast-fibre bundles, and so facilitating separation of the fibre from the stem It is native to the tropical and sub tropical monsoon regions of the world, and flourishes during the rainy season. They are also cultivating nettles in both the Czech Republic and Lithuania. During harvesting, the plant stalks are cut off close to the base or pulled up. The actual fibres are located between the epidermis, or bark surface, and an inner woody core. ting. It is mostly used in the furnishing textile industries, however due to its durability and advantageous properties it is also now being developed for high performance technical textiles. Bacteria are economically important as these microorganisms are used by humans for many purposes. Retting time must be carefully judged;… Kenaf fiber is also considered a substitute for jute and used in sacking, rope, and bags. The released fibre bundles, called strands, are frequently used without additional separation, in which case they are called fibres. Jute or Hessian is one of the cheapest natural fibres to produce, and is the second most important vegetable fibre after cotton, in terms of production, global consumption, and availability. The root system of bamboo creates an effective watershed, stitching the soil together along fragile river banks, deforested areas, and in places prone to mudslides. It holds its shape well and does not wrinkle easily. Following retting, a sequence of processes to remove the fibres from the woody stalks is carried out first by breaking them and then scraping or scutching them off which is done by beating with blunt wooden or metal blades either by hand or mechanically. The seeds and stalks as well as the general fermentation of the plant produces an oil that may be used as bio diesel, and while a low energy fuel it is better than other similar crops. About 40 million hectares of the earth is covered with bamboo, mostly in Asia. Very little bamboo is irrigated and there is sound evidence that the water-use efficiency of bamboo is twice that of other trees. Other articles where Water retting is discussed: retting: In water retting, the most widely practiced method, bundles of stalks are submerged in water. Industrial Hemp (Cannabis sativa L. subsp. However, it is far less labor intensive and less expensive than water retting. Tossa jute is softer and silkier and more lustrous than white jute. Fiber characteristics such as bundle strength, elongation at break, color, luster, reed length, and gum content were compared for fibers … In addition it controls topsoil erosion and produces great amounts of oxygen. Jute is a rain-fed crop with little need for fertilizer or pesticides. Centre for Learning and Teaching in Art and Design, Bast fibres, like linen and flax are obtained from the, Following retting, a sequence of processes to remove the fibres from the woody stalks is carried out first by, Linen, or flax is the most luxurious of all the bast fibres and has a very specific tactile appeal; it is smooth and lustrous to both the eye and hand, the fibre is almost silky in texture, yet embodies a springy freshness. It is commonly used in regions of low water supply. and claims to use a more natural way of processing the bamboo into fibre. NAT expects the partnership will open avenues for the fiber's use in underexplored clothing markets such as couture fashion, sports performance and extreme weather gear. As a textile fibre it blends well with both other natural fibres and synthetics and when dyed it retains colour well being both colour and light fast. Natural retting of coconut husks by native bacteria results in the release of toxic phenols delaying the extraction of the fibre and lowering the pH of the environmental waters detrimental to aquatic life. 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Hemp fibre can also be ‘cottonised’ by a process similar to that used for flax, it is however not easy to spin but does make for a very good blend when used together with cotton in a 50-50 ratio. The most widely practiced method of retting, water retting, is performed by submerging bundles of stalks in water. Retting is a controlled ‘rotting’ to remove the gummy (pectinous) substances which glue the bast fibres together, and this can be achieved with different methods: Water retting involves leaving the stalks in tanks or ponds of water (or in a running river), and are acted upon by bacteria, rotting the stalk which separates the fibres from the woody core. In Canada the export of hemp seeds has increased by over 300% over the last two years. This is a labour-intensive process and is used to produce bamboo ‘linen’. Flax processing is, however labour intensive, requiring skilled workers. Additionally linen is up to twelve times stronger than the equivalent cotton product, which dramatically increases its life spun and therefore does not need to be replaced so often. Bamboo fibre for textiles is either produced mechanically (via the retting process), or chemically (regenerated via the viscose process). This is the most important bamboo type in China, where it covers about 3 million hectares. Natural flax colours range from shades of ivory, tan and grey. With crop rotation it is not necessary to use chemical fertilisers and pesticides when growing flax. • The fibres are then mechanically extracted, washed, dried and marketed. The soft tissues are removed from the fibre plant with the help of bacteria. The longest and more desirable flax fibres are from plants that have been hand harvested; this is the process of pulling the complete plant with root (fibres go all the way to the root) from the ground. Bamboo typically grows very densely and its clumping nature enables substantial quantities to be grown in a comparatively small area, easing pressure on land use. Flax is a renewable resource and has the potential to be much more eco friendly than cotton. Ramie is a flowering plant of the nettle family boehmeria niveea that is native to Eastern Asia. Hemp is non-toxic in use, renewable and non-polluting during its life cycle; it needs little if any pesticides, resisting decay and infestation naturally. Microbes are used in retting to obtain bast fibres. The fibres are naturally white and do not need to undergo any bleaching processes for either paper or cloth uses. The soft tissues are removed from the fibre plant with the help of bacteria. Natural retting is considered to be impractical for modern industrial purposes, but this low technology will always be appropriate somewhere, and never completely obsolete. Coir is the fibrous material found between the hard, internal shell and the outer coat of a coconut. It takes 2–4 weeks for dam retting. Bamboo is also extremely efficient at minimising CO2 and generates up to 35% more oxygen than equivalent stands of trees. The processes for making nettles into desirable and commercially viable textiles are developing all the time and offer a far more environmentally sustainable alternative to conventional cotton. Your email address will not be published. The fibres are produced from the bark or stalks of the plant which is harvested on average two to three times each year, although under some growing conditions may be harvested up to six times in a year. Dutch company Brennels, in consultation with the De Montfort STING project is currently cultivating nettles in Holland's North-East Polder region. Furthermore, it was reported that the conditions for bacterial growth and activities were found to be more consistent in water retting, which produced the uniform colonization of bacteria and resulted in better fiber quality (Nair et al. Hackling is a combing process used to separate the long fibres from the short fibres and to remove the remaining woody material. It is used in areas of internal body parts where its strength and lightness of weight make the vehicles more fuel-efficient and thus a better ecological proposition. The plants are long and slender with fibres that are between one and five metres long running the full length of the plant. Search. Jute has very strong environmental credentials, as it does not require excessive watering, fertilisers or pesticides; it is a fast growing plant with a good yield ratio of fibre to weight and acreage. Dew retting tends to yield a dark-colored fiber. Valuable bast fibres called strands, however, are usually separated into fibre. 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